Mon. Journey South:

After a bit of confusion with regards to a ride to the airport, the driver we had called got stuck in traffic, so we had to call a "cool cab". Basically it's a white Mercedes right out of a European film from the 40's and a driver just about the same age. Par the course these things have room for one suitcase in the trunk and we had 4.
With no choice in the matter, as it was getting late, we tied a suitcase and 2 insulated boxes on the roof, 1 in the trunk, and squeezed the hand luggage in the back seat between us because Deio (remember him?) had to come along for some reason only known to the l-rd and sit in the front. It's now 1 and a half hours before our flight, (the ride to the airport is 1 hour +) and we are just about ready to go, all were waiting for is the boxes to be packed up, and the guy tells me its gonna be another 20 minutes! What? We had to leave an hour ago! Apparently one of the workers had to run out and buy some tape....and once he gets back it will take 3 people, 5 minutes to wrap up 2 boxes. go figure.
All that goes well ends well, or something to that effect, and we make it to our plane, not without paying a hefty overweight charge, and sit down comfortably on Indigo Air.
If I said the plane was half empty, that would be an understatement, so we enjoyed the front seat for the quick 1:40 hop to Cochin. After a safe landing, Thanks G-d, we went through the usual airport procedures like everyone else, you know luggage pick up, walk outside, call a cab, load the luggage, get in, tell him where you are going etc.
The drive, which was border-line pleasant as the roads are under construction, endured for about an hour. We arrived somewhere in the vicinity of 6:30 at Hotel Trident, hidden away behind some naval training bases, truck depots and other odd buildings on Willingdon Island (yes its really an island), and tried to get comfortable. Just as a tip, if you ever plan a trip to Cochin don't stay there. For more info. ask Mendy G.
We took the rest of the day off and just relaxed. Made some phone calls for the next day and set up some meetings.
In the morning we got up bright and early had coffee etc. and made our merry way to Mattancherry. Just to give you a quick overview of the local Jewish history.

-Jews arrived in Chrangmore, today called Travancore, close to 1,000 years ago from Spain, Holland, Yemen, and Israel. Most of them were entrepreneurs and brought skill and economic benefit to the country. Almost immediately they became very friendly with the local Raja government and they afforded them much respect. Later on the Jews moved to Cochin and established communities with the help of the Maharaja.
They provided land for Shuls and years later presented a golden crown for the sifrei torah. The land apportioned for the shul is next door to a Raja Palace (prime real estate) and anyone
visiting the palace would be directed to visit the shul and vice versa. Naturally they enjoyed a close relationship.
In the prime of its history approximately 5,000 Jews lived in Kerala (pronounced Kerla) State with a total of 8 synagouges. 3 in Mattancherry, 2 in Ernakulam, and 1 in Parur,
Mala, and Chernamangalum respectively. Today 5 are in existence and only 1 functioning. In the aftermath of mass emigration to Israel, most communities packed up their shuls
(Sifrei Torah, Seforim, and in one case even the ceiling beams), homes, and families and moved to Israel, thereby giving over the shuls to the government. Unlike the usual circumstances, in this case the government looks after the shul and takes care of the upkeep by charging a small entrance fee as in all government owned buildings.)

The last remaining shul is called Paradesi Synag. It was built in 1556 and functions unitl today. They allegedly have never missed a minyan on Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur. The tiles of the shul were sent from China (as mentioned in a previous post).
The leader of the community is the gabbai, he also serves as the 'rabbinic' figure as they have never had an official Rabbi. He leads the Teffilos and reads the Parsha, and is
responsible as well for the financial upkeep of the shul. Interestingly enough, though they have been so separated from other Jewish communities they have kept strong
to their religion (as much of it as they know). They only eat kosher meat, abstaining from meat entirely when kosher is not available, putting on teffilin daily and keeping shabbos. As Mrs. Sara Cohen put it "My husband was a very learned man. He was Religious and Orthodox!"

So, we arrive in Jew Town and were greeted by Gami (Gamliel). Just to give an example of the typical background of the Jewish residents. He was born in Cochin to a family who has been living there for the last 400 years. Married to a girl from 'next door' with 2 children. His son is religious and lives in Israel with his family, and his daughter is married and resides in Vancouver. They will be celebrating their 3rd Bar Mitzvah Iy"h in Israel. Gami will be there with his wife and will be staying for a total of 3 months over Tishrei. He learned in Cornell College for 4 years and graduated as an engineer.
As a child he remembers how all the houses lining Jew Street were filled with Jews. Today there are only 5 families living in Jew Town, a total of 5 men and 8 women. He remembers when they installed electricity in the town in the mid 60's. The Shul was the first building to receive this new amenity. They are the real soul of the community, and loved by all.
We sat with Gami for a while in the shul while he told us about the history of the place, and then we went out for a walk down "Main Street". Our first stop was Sara Cohen. A woman of 80, ka"h, she runs a store out of her home where she sells hand made yarmulkas and other Judaic as well as children's dresses. Her husband was the last Kohen and Shochet in town. He was very learned, knew all the prayers and the Parsha by heart and he would always encourage the local kids to learn it as well.
Again we sat down and talked for awhile discussing the old days and how things have changed in town. No more 'Asarah' on shabbat, no more shochet, and so on. After a quick look at her mezuzos it was obvious that they were no good, so we exchanged them for new ones and she was so happy that we had 'returned the blessing to the kohens house' that she gave each of us one of her yarmulkas. Apparently what happened was, due to the climate and heavy rainfall the mezuzos got ruined so the goy working in her house made a photocopy and replaced the 'leather one'. I explained to them that the 'leather one' is the only kind that can be used.
Afterwards we moved on across the street and met with Johnny Halejua (pronounced Ha-leeg-wah), the oldest member of the community at 84 ka"h. He unfortunately didnt have much to say and we had to daven Mincha. So we wrapped it up and went back to the hotel.
In the lobby we bumped into some Israeli fellows who are working with the Indian Navy and made up to meet them in the morning for coffee and Teffilin.
Bs"d thats all for now...